Cycling the Ring of Kerry: A Complete Route Guide
The 179 km core loop with optional extensions, ridden in one hard day or spread over three. Coach traffic is the main thing to plan around.
Introduction
The Ring of Kerry, a 179 km (111 mi) loop around the Iveragh Peninsula, is the best known road ride in Ireland, and in high summer it feels like it. The coast road is narrow, the tour coaches are wide, and the climbs are shorter than the scenery leads you to expect. Ridden in one go it is a long day: seven to nine hours for a fit rider, and longer into a headwind. Split over three, it turns into a different holiday altogether.
1. Planning Your Ride
1.1 Best time to ride
| Season | Typical weather | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Late spring (May-June) | Mild temps (12-18 °C), longest daylight, lower rain probability | Best combination of sunshine and quiet roads | Nights can be chilly, pack warm layers |
| Early autumn (September) | Similar temps, fewer tourists | Light traffic, beautiful autumn colours | Variable rain, shorter daylight |
| Summer (July-August) | Warmest (up to 22 °C) | Full range of services open | Peak tourist traffic, especially on the N70 coastal section |
| Winter (Nov-Feb) | Cold, frequent rain, possible snow on higher passes | Near-empty roads, dramatic landscapes | Short daylight, possible road closures, wind can be strong |
For most cyclists the sweet spot is May or early June, dry, sunny days and manageable traffic.
1.2 Fitness & time-budget
- Full-day challenge: 179 km, ~1 000 m total ascent (average 5 m/km). A fit road cyclist can finish in 7-9 h, but allow extra time for stops, photos and possible headwinds.
- 2-day itinerary: 90 km day 1, 90 km day 2, with overnight in Killarney or Killorglin. Reduces daily fatigue and leaves time for exploring attractions.
- 3-4-day “explorer” route: Break the loop into 50-60 km stages, adding side loops (Black Valley, Skellig Ring, Valentia Island). Ideal for bike-tourers who want to camp or stay in guesthouses.
1.3 What bike to bring
| Bike type | Why it works | Considerations |
|---|---|---|
| Road bike / endurance bike | Light, fast on the paved sections; most of the route is on the N70/N71 | Choose a model with clearance for occasional rough patches and a few low-gear ratios for the short climbs (Moll’s Gap 260 m, Ballaghisheen Pass ≈ 300 m). |
| Gravel bike | Comfortable on mixed surfaces; can detour onto R568, R546 or Black Valley tracks without changing bikes | Ensure tyres are wide enough (≥ 35 mm) for gravel and still roll well on tarmac. |
| Hybrid / touring bike | Carries luggage easily; stable on windy coasts | Heavier; plan for slightly slower pace on climbs. |
2. Route Overview
2.1 Core loop (179 km)
- Start/finish: Killarney (most logical base, transport links, accommodation, bike shops).
- Key passes & climbs:
- Moll’s Gap: 260 m (N71, between Kenmare and Killarney).
- Ballaghisheen Pass: ~300 m, interior road linking Killarney to Waterville.
- Small climbs near Caherdaniel (≈180 m) and around Killarney National Park (≈250 m).
- Total elevation gain: roughly 1 000 m (≈3 300 ft), modest for a seasoned cyclist but wind can make it feel harder.
2.2 Optional side loops
| Loop | Distance | Highlights | Recommended for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black Valley (R568) | 30 km (round-trip) | Remote mountain scenery, fewer cars | Riders wanting off-road gravel feel |
| Skellig Ring (Valentia Island) | 37 km loop | Skellig Islands viewpoint, Portmagee, Valentia Harbour | Photographers, wildlife lovers |
| Gap of Dunloe (detour) | 15 km | Dramatic glacial valley, horse-drawn carriage rides | Day-trippers from Killarney |
3. Suggested Itineraries
3.1 One-Day “Epic” Ride
| Segment | Km | Approx. time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Killarney → Killorglin (N71) | 28 | 1 h 15 min | Early start to beat traffic |
| Killorglin → Cahersiveen | 45 | 2 h | Scenic coastal stretch, occasional wind |
| Cahersiveen → Waterville | 30 | 1 h 30 min | Passes Ballaghisheen Pass |
| Waterville → Sneem → Molls Gap | 45 | 2 h | Molls Gap offers the best vistas |
| Molls Gap → Killarney (N71) | 31 | 1 h 30 min | Descent back to town |
Tips: Pack plenty of water (minimum 2 L), high-energy snacks, and a spare inner tube. Use a GPS app (Komoot, Strava or the official Ring of Kerry GPX file) to stay on the correct side of the loop.
3.2 Two-Day “Leisure” Ride
- Day 1: Killarney → Waterville (≈ 90 km). Stay overnight in Waterville (B&B or campsite).
- Day 2: Waterville → Killarney via Molls Gap (≈ 90 km).
Allows a relaxed pace (≈ 4 h riding per day) and time for a short hike around the Molls Gap viewpoint.
3.3 Three-Day “Explorer” Ride
| Day | Route | Distance | Highlights |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Killarny → Killorglin → Glenbeigh → Cahersiveen | 55 km | Beaches, Cahersiveen harbour |
| 2 | Cahersiveen → Waterville → Sneem → Black Valley (R568) → Molls Gap | 65 km | Ballaghisheen Pass, Black Valley, Molls Gap |
| 3 | Molls Gap → Killarney (via N71) + optional Skellig Ring side-loop | 59 km | Killarney National Park, optional Skellig Ring |
Accommodation: Mix of campsites (e.g., Glenbeigh Campsite, Cahersiveen Caravan Park, Killarney Glamping Hub) and guesthouses (prices €70-€120 per night).
4. Navigation & Maps
- GPX files: Download the “Ring of Kerry, Complete Loop” GPX from Komoot or Ride with GPS.
- Offline maps: Install OSMAnd or Maps.me with the “Ireland, County Kerry” map pack; cell coverage can be spotty in the Black Valley.
- Printed maps: The Ordnance Survey Ireland (OSI) Explorer 117 sheet covers the whole peninsula; handy for waypoint planning.
- Key waypoints: Mark the following on your device: Molls Gap (260 m), Ballaghisheen Pass, Ladies View, Torc Waterfall, Skellig Ring viewpoint, Valentia Harbour.
5. Essential Gear & Bike Setup
| Item | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Pannier set (30-40 L) | Carries clothes, tools, food, and a spare rain jacket without adding front-wheel weight. |
| Tubeless or puncture-resistant tyres (35-40 mm) | Reduces flats on gravel sections and on the occasional road debris. |
| Lightweight rain jacket & waterproof pack liner | Irish weather changes fast; a breathable jacket keeps you dry without overheating. |
| Multi-tool, spare tube, CO₂ cartridges | Quick fixes on remote stretches. |
| Hydration system (2 L bottle or 1.5 L pack) | Keeps you hydrated; water points are sparse between towns. |
| Portable power bank + USB charger | For GPS, phone and emergency calls. |
| Helmet with visor | Protects against wind-blown rain and sea spray. |
| Bike lights (front 200 lm, rear 100 lm) | Required for early-morning rides; many sections lack street lighting. |
Bike set-up tip: Install a compact rear rack for panniers and a low-profile front rack for a spare bottle; keep your centre of gravity low to handle the occasional cross-winds on exposed coastal sections.
6. Safety & Road Etiquette
- Stay on the left. Irish roads are narrow; give oncoming traffic plenty of space, especially on the N70 coastal stretch.
- Signal early when turning off the main road onto side roads or pull-outs.
- Watch for livestock and sheep, particularly in the interior valleys.
- Carry a high-visibility vest (mandatory for cyclists on many Irish roads).
- Check weather forecasts on Met Éireann before heading out; wind speeds above 30 km/h can make the coastal sections treacherous.
- Emergency number: 112 (or 999), give location as nearest town + “Ring of Kerry”.
- Bike repair shops: Killarney (McCarthy’s Bike Shop), Killorglin (Cycle Hire & Repair), and Kenmare (Kenmare Bikes). Keep a list of shop phone numbers.
7. Accommodation & Camping
| Type | Typical cost (per night) | Facilities |
|---|---|---|
| Campsites (Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Killarney) | €10-€12 for two people + tent | Shared kitchen, hot water, dump point |
| Glamping pods (Killarney Glamping Hub) | €70-€120 | Beds, electricity, shower |
| Guesthouses / B&B (Killorglin, Sneem) | €50-€90 | Breakfast, private rooms |
| Wild camping | Free (tolerated) | Allowed on most inland lands; avoid private property and national park restricted zones. |
Tip: Book campsites in advance for July-August; many close for the winter months (Nov-Feb). In early spring, most sites are open but may have limited facilities.
8. Highlights & Photographic Stops
- Ladies View: Panoramic sweep of the Lakes of Killarney; perfect sunrise shot.
- Moll’s Gap: 260 m pass with sweeping views of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks.
- Torc Waterfall: Short detour from the N71; a misty backdrop for landscape photos.
- Muckross House & Gardens: Historic estate inside Killarney National Park.
- Skellig Ring: Viewpoints of Skellig Michael and Puffin Island; consider a boat tour if time permits.
- Black Valley: Remote, quiet road with dramatic mountain scenery; great for a mid-ride coffee stop at the Climbers Inn.
- Valentia Island: Cross via bridge; the Valentia Lighthouse offers a striking coastal vista.
9. Practical Tips for a Smooth Ride
- Fuel & food: Fill up in Killarney, Killorglin or Kenmare; petrol stations are sparse between Cahersiveen and Waterville. Carry energy bars, nuts, and a small sandwich.
- Cash: Many rural shops still prefer cash (Euro) for small purchases.
- Phone coverage: Strong in towns, patchy in the Black Valley and on Valentia Island, consider a local SIM.
- Leave-no-trace: Pack out all litter, especially on wild-camping sites. Respect farmland and private property.
- Bike transport: If you’re flying into Dublin, the train to Tralee (≈ 4 h) and a bus to Killarney is a convenient way to get your bike to the start point.
Conclusion
The climbing is not the hard part of the Ring of Kerry. The wind is, and so is the traffic on the N70 between July and August. Get the season right, gear the bike low enough for Moll’s Gap and Ballaghisheen, and be honest with yourself about daily distances. Whether you ride the full 179 km in a single day or split it across three stages, the Iveragh Peninsula gives back more than it takes. Check Met Éireann the night before. Then go.